), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. The Upper Curtis glacier was shedding ice and rock all evening into the night, an excellent reminder of the ever present objective hazards and motivation to stay efficient moving under the cliff bands to the left the next day. Protect your gear and keep animals wild by urinating on bare rock, far away from camping areas, and by keeping salty gear and other food items out of reach of wildlife (use a bear canister, or hang food from tree limbs or large boulders). You will need to provideall of your own meals during the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb. In retrospect 2x 50m 8.9s would have been equally as effective and much lighter. We all downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we reach the top of the chimney. Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Day by Day Day 1. Meals Included: None. WA to pick-up permits. Read our Goals and Fitnesspage for recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure. About halfway up, where you make a traverse from the lower to upper chimneys we broke through the cloud cover and were rewarded with beautiful views of Mt. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. Many a climber on a long, back-breaking approach has cursed thickets of devils club or slide alder or the clinging snags of downed trees. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. This trail goes by Park Boundary Marker, Upper Curtis Glacier, and The Hourglass. You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascadesin Washington State. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency. No date changes allowed less than 45 days before departure. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. One day push in about 13 hours.Check http://www.mountainrefugees.com for . Draped in glaciers and capped with a beautiful, 3-sided summit pyramid, it more than lives up to its name. This short traverse from the end of the ropes to the final rap station was not that difficult though. From our alpine bivy, we turn to alpine ice, glacier travel, steep snow climbing, more glacier travel, and eventually alpine rock climbing . I don't think many people did Fisher Chimneys and SE Ridge as their first ever alpine climb, let alone first time literally climbing anything at all in Rob's case. You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. The Fisher Chimneys route has it all. It wasnt late, so we had some time to decide. Take exit 232 from I-5 S, Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Learn to navigate using map and compass, or harness the technology of GPS. We hopped on the snow and continued un-roped to the base of Winnies Slide. From the summit, we enjoy views of the glaciers beneath us on Shuksans north face, and the serrated peaks of the North Cascades. This is a strenuous route that requires climbing technical terrain carrying an overnight pack. All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. This snowy peak towers above Oregon, inspiring climbers and non-climbers alike. Kara scrambling in Fisher Chimneys. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. I knew that physical endurance wouldn't be an issue, we had all the gear, and the weather was going to be acceptable at a minimum. A ranger ascends the Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. An unlikely series of moderate features breach Shuksan's sheer Southwest Face, yielding access to the upper glaciers and summit pyramid where climbers navigate through a maze of rock and ice to a spectacular . HMG Prism was just about perfect for this trip - gypsy camp with everything packed but perfect slimmed down on summit day. The books listed below are examples of titles available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service). When you return from your adventure, you can submit a conditions report if you like-or, you can decide that some places are best when you discover them on your own. While we packed up the tents another party arrived, happy to snag our spots for their evening bivy. At this meeting guides will issue Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. Descend along the northwest edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier until you can cross to the White Salmon at about 7050 ft. Descend a short steep slope at the top of the White Salmon then keep left, following below the crest of Shuksan Arm on easy rock and snow for a short distance until you come to place where you can cross to the south side of the ridge. 1670 S Burlington Blvd Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. Here are some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb. Mt. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. Dinner in high camp. The Guide Hut / Northwest Alpine Guides A way to bypass the need for a backcountry camping permit would be . Distance: 13.7 mi. There is some exposure to the bottom right, and in this instance the backed-up rappel was definitely a good choice for tired climbers pushing through a very long summit day. Shuksan, which is generally regarded as the Sulphide Glacier route. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Log in and send us Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in person on the morning of your climb, or in advance viaourOnline Gear Shop. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches. July 22, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). This initially caused some delays waiting for them on the first couple pitches, however by the last pitch they were fully ahead, and we were our own limiting factor. Complex glacier travel, moderate and exposed rock climbing and often a bit of easy ice climbing later in the season. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. 305 F And S Grade Road Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys. September 2017. This route delivers engaging movement and incredible scenery from start to finish. MT. Shuksan rises in Whatcom County, Washington immediately to the east of Mount Baker, and 11.6 miles south of the Canada-US border. Bring layers of fleece or wool clothing and a good sleeping bag to keep warm. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. I had us pack 2 ropes, a 60m 9.5 and a 50m 8.9, for redundancy and in hopes that we would be able to link some rappels on the way down for efficiency. June 28-29. We started Saturday afternoon and headed to lake Ann to make camp. Day 2 . Shuksan summit pyramid couloir is about 40% snow covered. Shadows cast, I presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up the Sulphide glacier. Do not underestimate the importance of climbing-specific training. North Cascades Mountain Guides is among the few companies fortunate enough to be allowed to guide trips to the summit of Mount Rainier. Descending the Fisher Chimneys themselves is best done as a downclimb rather than a series of rappels. info@northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F And S Grade Road The Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys, and the North Face are all commonly climbed, and regularly guided. Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through . Joe getting ready to do the fun little 'au cheval' exposed step over on the chimney traverse section. Flagging and webbing are trash, too 22. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan when conditions are expected to be dry. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp As we neared what I thought was the beginning of the ridge, another party arrived, and we let them pass us given my expectation to be pitching everything out. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. Trails Hiked. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Climbed mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Route. Baker and Mt. updates, images, or resources. Downclimbing is faster and safer for parties that can move appropriately on 4th class terrain, and long rappels in the upper Chimneys really increase the likelihood of rockfall, causing a major hazard for any climbers below. Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Mixed Alpine Climbing. From high camp, we ascend a snow slope and short ice pitch to the top of Winnies Slide. It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. After driving through an hour of rain, we finally rolled in to Glacier. Our guides are dedicated mountain professionals who work hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the mountain. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Schedule: Day 1: Approach, climb the Fisher Chimneys, circumnavigate to the base of the North Face. Fisher Chimneys- 7/18/16. A one hour climbing skills training will be taught. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration. It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Climb for experienced climbers or basic graduates. Dont let members of your group get away with leaving a pile of poop in the wilderness! We recommend training for Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route at least 3-6 months in advance. With your permission, our office staff can share your name and contact information with other team members so that you can organize ridesharing. No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. The main parking lot was full so we parked in the overflow lot. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. Top of the dihedral that everyone likes to take pics of. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Although it took more time, I set up rappels on the tough sections of the chimneys. Backcountry Permits. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online atTheGuideHut.com. Also remember that in this wilderness park the vegetation is protected: cutting, limbing, or destroying vegetation is illegal and can result in a serious citation. Last light as we exited the chimneys proper and continued on our descent. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. When preparing meals, please do not bring food items that require extensive cooking or other preparation. Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. 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